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Cover with Gusset
This pattern is for a 17 inch wide contoured hanger for jackets and coats. This hanger has forward bending shoulders, and sometimes has widened shoulders at the end. Measurements are 23.5 inches across the bottom, 12 inches in length with about a 4 inch drop from the shoulder. The gusset pattern is 4 inches wide and the length needed to sew around the cut edge of the pattern (18 inches here), plus 5/8 inch seam allowance. The gusset will be cut on the bias to sew around the curved edges of the body. The optional pocket pattern is 7 inches high and 7 inches wide including seam and hem allowances, but can be made any size desired.
Sewing the Gusset
The pocket has been attached and 5/8 inch hem allowance pressed up on the body. The gusset has been stitched together at one short end, leaving a 1 inch opening in the center for the hanger, where the pencil is poking through. Press the seam allowance open, fold under, press and edgestitch to form the opening. Right sides together, start pinning the gusset at the center top, working your way down to the bottom, stretching the gusset around the corners. There will be excess fabric at the bottom since the bias fabric has been stretched. Trim it off after stitching both sides of the gusset, before hemming. Stitch a scant 1/4 inch seam from the body side of the cover, with the gusset on the feed dogs. Repeat for the 2nd body section. Trim off excess gusset fabric.
Hemming
The gusset has been attached to both body sections and the excess fabric from the gusset trimmed even with the body. On this fabric, about 1.5 inches was trimmed off. Other fabrics could be more or less. Fold up the hem allowance that was previously pressed up, tuck in the raw edge with your thumbnail and stitch the hem, catching the bottom of the pocket in the stitching.
Outside Stitching
With the hem complete the final outside stitching is done, enclosing the raw edge inside. No need to press yet. Pinch the body and gusset together at the bottom corner and run your fingernail along the seamline inside to start stitching. Here the fingers on my left hand are inside between the body and gusset, pushing out the seam. My right hand is crossed over the left, on the outside of the body section, holding the fabric taut for stitching. (not visible here since I had to take the photo). Stitch 3/8 inch with the body section on top. Repeat with the remaining body section.
Pressing
Pressing the seam over a ham will help smooth out any ripples from the bias cut fabric and will give a nice, flat edge. Also press the stitched hem and the body if needed.
The Finished Cover
The finished cover is protective and looks nice in the closet. The pocket can hold extra buttons, sachets, cedar chips, etc. It would be nice to have a name or initials embroidered here, but that did not happen today. I found these contoured wooden hangers at my local thrift store. They always have bags of hangers for around $6.00. I prefer this style of hanger for jackets and coats over a padded hanger that does not support the neck area properly. I'll tell you a secret here - this gusset was cut on the straight grain so there is some rippling around the edge on the outside edge. Cutting the gusset on the bias solves this.
Padded Hanger and Contoured Hanger
On the left is a cover for a padded hanger with no gusset. This would be good for dresses or special shirts or blouses, or perhaps a sweater that is folded and placed over the hanger bar for storage. On the right is another cover with the gusset cut on the bias - no rippled seams.
Padded Hanger Pattern
The pattern is different for a padded hanger, just an oval shape with the same dropped shoulders. I probably traced this shape from a purchased garment bag years ago, as it is dated for 2016. It can be made with or without a gusset, just leave an opening in the top for the hanger. Of course, other items can benefit from a cover, just ask my husband that has requested several covers over the years for his musical items. Just follow the basic shape of the object, allow some ease, side panels, etc. whatever shape needed.
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